Sri Lanka Gem Tour

In January 2009, I had the unique opportunity to learn more about Sri Lanka gemstones “at the source” with Mr. Hirosha Yahampath of www.gemexpeditions.com. Hirosha is a very competent and personable gemologist and was very responsive in setting up a personalized itinerary for me. I highly recommend his services to anyone interested in learning more about gemology (and in particular Sri Lankan gemstones).

Colombo

The first fews days of the trip were spent in Colombo, a rather quiet city situated directly on the Indian Ocean. It was a nice change of pace from the larger, more hectic cities of Bangkok, Singapore and Hong Kong.

Sri Lanka gemstone training

The training began with a basic gemology review, and then many more details on Sri Lankan gemstones -- why gemstones are found here, types of gemstones found in Sri Lanka, gem mining methods, funding for gem mines, sapphire treatments, synthetics, collector’s stones in Sri Lanka, Sinhalese names for gemstones, astrological significance of various gemstones in Sri Lanka, gem markets, pricing, and much more.

On the road to Ratnapura

We left early in the morning for the 3 hour drive to Ratnapura, the “city of gems”. Traffic was quite heavy in Colombo, but it gradually thinned out and we were able to make good progress. The countryside was beautiful and I really enjoyed the ride.

Ratnapura street gem market

People notice quickly that you are in Ratnapura to buy gemstones. At first it's not too bad and you have time and room to examine the stones closely, but after about 5 minutes there are 20-30 dealers pressing in around you, all stuffing stones into your hands. After an hour it got a little crazy even for me, so we returned to the car and drove about a mile out of town. A few of the dealers followed us on motorbikes, so we pulled to the side of the road. We opened the window and then were able to examine gemstones more thoroughly from the comfort of the car.

Gem mines

Around Ratnapura there are lots of gem mines located in the rice fields. Sri Lanka strives to maintain an ecologically-friendly and sustainable gem industry, so mechanized mining is prohibited. Mines typically consist of a vertical shaft that goes down to the gem-bearing gravel layer (up to 30 meters deep), then the miners work out horizontally to collect the gravel. A thatched roof protects the mine shaft and water pump

Gem miners

These miners are standing in front of the area where the gem-bearing gravel is stored and guarded. It is washed and sorted when they feel it is an auspicious or lucky time.

Washing the gem gravel

Several shovelfuls of gravel are placed in a basket, and the miner washes out the dirt and clay in a washing pit.

Selecting from the gem gravel

After washing, the basket of gem gravel is carefully sorted. The miners were extremely talented in moving the gravel and visually sorting various types of gemstones. I was invited to give it a try, but only found a few inexpensive stones (quartz, garnet, topaz, etc).

Sri Lankan lapidary

The overall quality of gemcutting in Sri Lanka is very good, so I was not too surprised to see that this gemcutter was using fairly modern equipment. Some of the gemstones that I purchased are so good that it would be difficult to improve upon!

Temple of Saman

At the end of the day, we visited the ancient temple of “Saman Devale”. People in the area believe that the God Saman was the human ruler of the area 2500 years ago, and that upon his invitation the Lord Buddha placed his footprint on the Adam’s Peak mountain. Before starting a gem mine in the area, gem dealers and miners worship here. It was quite interesting and we were lucky to see the top of Adam’s Peak from the temple steps.

Padparascha sunset

The last day was spent in Colombo visiting local gem dealers and the Sri Lanka Gemmologists Association. The trip was now over so it was fitting to watch a “padparascha” colored sunset the last evening before the long trip home. I was sad to leave but I know that I’ll be back soon!